Thursday, February 6, 2014

A Quick Lesson: How to Fill Your Brows, Part 2

In continuation of my previous post on how to fill your brows, this tutorial will explain more about shaping and the "Magic Brow Ratio".

The "Magic Brow Ratio" is the easiest and best way to determine where the brows should start and end to best frame the fact.  It also helps to locate where the arch should appear for the most natural, flattering look.  If you have over plucked in the past, no worries!  You can use this guide to help fill your brows, and once you know the shape you should be aiming for, it will make it easier to pluck only where necessary.  All you need to get started is a straight edged tool, like a makeup brush, and a brow pencil to mark the three key measurements.

In order to achieve the ideal brow, there are three key measurements :  The inner brow, the arch, and tail.

1.  The Inner brow:  The inner part of the brow, or head of the brow, should start around the same line as the side of your nose.  Hold your "measuring tool" flush against your nostril and make a little mark if necessary as a guide.

2.  The Arch:  The arch of the brow should start the distance from the side of the nose to the outer edge of the iris (colorful part of the eye).  This should be the highest point of the brow.  Using your measuring tool, measure diagonally from the nostril to the iris and make a little mark with your pencil.

3.  The Tail: The tail of the brow should end around the area from where the side of your nostril and the outer corner of your eye.  Use your measuring tool to continue to measure diagonally from the nostril to the outer corner of the eye, as shown above.  Make a mark where the tail should be.

Next, you will use these marks as guides while filling the brows.  Once again, this helps to give you the idea of what your ideal brow placement should be, so you can fill the brows more effectively.  The next few steps are my typical routine when doing my brows.

I usually focus most of my definition on the arch and tail of my brows, since my inner brow area is pretty much where I want it to be.  My eyebrows are not perfectly matched (nobody has perfectly matching ones!) and so I have to define one a little more than the other to make them look as matched as possible without looking phony.  As I mentioned in my previous brow post, a brow that is too squared off in the inner corner is a look that some people are into, but it can look very harsh.

Here I have added my pencil to define and lengthen my brow.  The next step I usually add is to use a little concealer and a concealer brush to trace the upper line of the brow as well as the tail.  This helps to make the penciled in areas look more natural.  (Okay, I know that sounds weird since I am taking about adding more makeup to make it look natural, but trust me! I will add a post on this soon!) 
To blend the concealer so there is no telltale sign of it, I use a blending brush (a clean eyeshadow blending brush) to blend it.  

Lastly, I fill my brows with a little powder and add a little clear eyebrow gel.  Ta-da!

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