A Quick Lesson: How to Conceal a Zit

One of my best friends requested that I write a post about concealing zits, since unfortunately this is a beauty issue most of us face from time to time.

Depending on whether you use a powder or liquid/cream foundation formula, you will change the order of these steps slightly.  If you use a powder foundation (i.e.: mineral foundation), you will conceal prior to applying foundation.  If you use a liquid or cream foundation formula, you will conceal after you apply the foundation.

You will need four products aside from your favorite foundation: a small, pointed makeup brush (like this one), a small blending brush, a creamy concealer that matches your skin tone, and a loose powder.  I personally use Bare Minerals Correcting Concealer Broad Spectrum SPF 20 in Light 2 and Mineral Veil (original).   If you have spots that are very red, you may also want to use a green color corrector prior to the concealer, which will neutralize the redness.

1.  Dip the brush into the concealer.  You only need a little bit of the product on the very tip of the bristles (no need to waste product!).  Apply directly to the zit using a stippling motion, making sure not to conceal the area around it.

2.  Using your finger, lightly tap over the concealed spot.  This helps to press the product into the skin (so it does not look as if it is sitting on top of the skin) and will give the most natural look.

3.  Using a small blender brush, apply the loose powder directly to the concealed spot to help set it. Use a delicate touch so you do not uncover the concealer you just applied.

4.  Repeat as necessary for additional zits/red spots.  

There you have it- pretty simple.  The most important thing to remember is that makeup will only help conceal the redness or discoloration; it will NOT change the texture of the skin (i.e.: erase bumps/inflammation).  To help zits heal quickly, do not pick and use your favorite spot treatment daily.  You may want to try hydrocortisone cream, which I find helps speed the healing process.  I also rub an ice cube over the inflamed area to help reduce the swelling (for those painful cystic acne spots).

Tutorial: How to Slim Your Nose in a Few Minutes

One of my favorite tricks that is super easy and makes a HUGE difference is contouring my nose.  Not that everyone out there needs to create a slimmer schnoz, but if you have a nose that is on the larger and/or wider side, this is a great trick to know.  With makeup, you can slim your nose in just a couple of steps.  All you need is a matte bronzer or contouring powder (nothing shimmery or sparkly), a eyeshadow brush, and a blending brush.  Some people prefer to use a concealer or foundation (a couple shades darker than their skin color) to contour, but for day-to-day makeup, the steps below are easier.

1.  After applying your typical complexion makeup (moisturizer, concealer, foundation, etc), swirl the tip of your flat eyeshadow brush into your bronzer or contouring powder.  Starting at the upper side of the bridge of your nose (under the head of your eyebrow), lightly trace a line going all the way down to the nostril.  Repeat on the other side of your nose.

2.  After you have drawn the lines on both sides of the nose, draw a line horizontally from one nostril  through the tip of your nose, to the other nostril.

3.  Using your blending brush, blend along the bronzer/contour lines you drew to "fade" them into your skin.

And there you have it, a slimmer nose in no time!  Below you can compare the difference this makes. I am sorry that I do not have photos from the same day, but you get the point:)

No contouring

Contoured nose:)

A Quick Lesson: How to Fill Your Brows, Part 2

In continuation of my previous post on how to fill your brows, this tutorial will explain more about shaping and the "Magic Brow Ratio".

The "Magic Brow Ratio" is the easiest and best way to determine where the brows should start and end to best frame the fact.  It also helps to locate where the arch should appear for the most natural, flattering look.  If you have over plucked in the past, no worries!  You can use this guide to help fill your brows, and once you know the shape you should be aiming for, it will make it easier to pluck only where necessary.  All you need to get started is a straight edged tool, like a makeup brush, and a brow pencil to mark the three key measurements.

In order to achieve the ideal brow, there are three key measurements :  The inner brow, the arch, and tail.

1.  The Inner brow:  The inner part of the brow, or head of the brow, should start around the same line as the side of your nose.  Hold your "measuring tool" flush against your nostril and make a little mark if necessary as a guide.

2.  The Arch:  The arch of the brow should start the distance from the side of the nose to the outer edge of the iris (colorful part of the eye).  This should be the highest point of the brow.  Using your measuring tool, measure diagonally from the nostril to the iris and make a little mark with your pencil.

3.  The Tail: The tail of the brow should end around the area from where the side of your nostril and the outer corner of your eye.  Use your measuring tool to continue to measure diagonally from the nostril to the outer corner of the eye, as shown above.  Make a mark where the tail should be.


Next, you will use these marks as guides while filling the brows.  Once again, this helps to give you the idea of what your ideal brow placement should be, so you can fill the brows more effectively.  The next few steps are my typical routine when doing my brows.

I usually focus most of my definition on the arch and tail of my brows, since my inner brow area is pretty much where I want it to be.  My eyebrows are not perfectly matched (nobody has perfectly matching ones!) and so I have to define one a little more than the other to make them look as matched as possible without looking phony.  As I mentioned in my previous brow post, a brow that is too squared off in the inner corner is a look that some people are into, but it can look very harsh.

Here I have added my pencil to define and lengthen my brow.  The next step I usually add is to use a little concealer and a concealer brush to trace the upper line of the brow as well as the tail.  This helps to make the penciled in areas look more natural.  (Okay, I know that sounds weird since I am taking about adding more makeup to make it look natural, but trust me! I will add a post on this soon!) 

To blend the concealer so there is no telltale sign of it, I use a blending brush (a clean eyeshadow blending brush) to blend it.  

Lastly, I fill my brows with a little powder and add a little clear eyebrow gel.  Ta-da!

A Quick Lesson on How to Fill Your Eyebrows: Part 1

As I have mentioned before, eyebrows can make a big difference in your appearance, and that could mean good or bad!   A nice set of groomed brows balances the face and makes the rest of your makeup look more polished.

Depending on the shape and size of your natural brows, the type of product(s) you can use may vary.  On a basic level, pencils should be used to shape the brow and powder should be used to fill.  There are other products out there, like brow gels, waxes, pomades, etc.  Brow gels and waxes are used to set the brows, and are available in clear and colored formulas.  Brow mousses and pomades are used to beef up thin or extremely pale brows, generally giving the appearance of thicker hairs.  No matter what you use, it is always a good idea to groom your brows in good lighting (trust me on this one!) and make sure to comb through the brows to ensure that the product is well-blended.  A spoolie brush is a MUST for combing, and a small angled brush is great for filling.

With brow products, I tend to lean toward shades that are slightly lighter and ashier than the natural brow color.  A lot of brow products tend to appear more reddish in photographs, which looks unnatural unless you have warmer toned hair and skin.

Here is my first EVER video tutorial!  Please forgive the quality of the video, as I am still getting used to all of this:)

Please stay tuned for Part 2 of How to Fill Your Eyebrows, which should be up soon!

A Quick Lesson on the Makeup Brushes Every Girl Should Own

Frequently I am asked about the types of makeup brushes to use to create different types of looks, for example: the cat eye flick, a smokey eye, etc.  I wanted to share with you the basic functions of the makeup brushes that can help create the majority of makeup looks- no need to go brush crazy!
The basic rules for makeup brushes are that natural hair brushes (animal hair) are best for powder products and synthetic hair brushes (plastic/manmade fiber) are best for applying cream or liquid products.  For natural hair brushes, I suggest splurging on brand name versions since they are generally made better and last longer (no hairs coming out after washing!)  I tend to buy MAC Cosmetics brushes because of their good quality, but there are plenty of other brands out there with great brushes as well.  There are also plenty of brands that offer inexpensive, well-made synthetic brushes, such as Real Techniques or Bdellium.  You can even find some nice kits out there that likely include all of my recommendations below.  Anyway, here we go!

Kryolan Shader Brushes (small and large)

1.  Eyeshadow shader brush:  A shader brush allows you to apply eyeshadow to the lid.  I recommend a good quality natural hair brush, but there are plenty of synthetic versions that work perfectly fine too.

Smashbox Blending Brush

2.  Eyeshadow blending brush: A blending brush is used to blend (duh!) eyeshadow (or other powder products) to get a seamless result, especially for achieving a smokey eye.  You can also use a blending brush to blend concealer on the under eye area, which makes the look more natural.  A natural bristle brush with get you the best results.  

MAC Spoolie Brush

3.  Spoolie/brow brush: Spoolie brushes can be used to groom brows into shape and also to de-clump mascara.

MAC Angled Eyeliner Brush

4.  Angled eyeliner brush:  A angled eyeliner brush is used to draw on eyeliner (especially good for a cat eye) with a gel or cream product.  You can also use this brush to fill in brows with a powder product.  A synthetic version is your best bet.

MAC Blush Brush

5.  Blush brush:  A blush brush is used to apply powder products, like blush and bronzer, to the face.    Look for a good quality natural brush for the best results.

MAC Powder Brush

6.  Powder brush:  The powder brush is used to apply powder to large areas of the face, mostly to set makeup and blot out shine.  Once again a good quality natural bristle brush is best.  

Sigma Concealer brush

7.  Concealer brush:  Concealer brushes are best to apply cream products to the skin.  This allows for precise concealing on the face, such as covering zits or other imperfections.  A synthetic version is your best bet.

Two different types of foundation brushes: MAC Angled Foundation Brush and Urban Decay's Optical Blending Brush

And if you wear liquid or cream foundation, 8.  Foundation brush or Beauty Blender:  A foundation brush is used to apply liquid or cream foundation to the face.  Using a brush or sponge instead of your fingers ensures that product isn't wasted, and allows for better blending.  As with the other cream/liquid products, a synthetic brush will work best.

I hope this helps clear things up when it comes to makeup brush shopping and usage.  Please let me know if you have any questions or comments.